Photo: www.dirceturucayali.gob.pe
The Amazon in Brazil is often in the spotlight due to it having the largest and easily accessed jungle city Manaus. For this list however, I will focus on the Peruvian Amazon with its amazing offerings despite having only a fifth of the size of its Brazilian neighbor. I´ve included the sizes of these reserves and approximate numbers of the different species, but please do not confuse diversity with density. You will need a local guide´s help in order to spot any wildlife at all and to keep you from getting lost. In fact, without a special permit from the government, you can´t go in the reserved areas on your own. There are also recent discoveries in some of these national reserves which make them worthy of a visit. Your guide may even spin some folklores, like the hidden gold treasure troves of the last Incas in Paititi within the Manu Biosphere Reserve. The legend about the gold may or may not be true, but there are indeed countless little-known ancient ruins in the Amazon due to the difficulty of access, often requiring days of arduous hiking.
BRAZIL
Central Amazon Biosphere – Manaus
This biosphere has a staggering area of 20 million hectares and contains many natural reserves. The Jau National Park has an area of 2.37 million hectares and it contains the largest Amazonian lake called the Amana. There is approximately one Caiman per kilometer in all habitats, however they can only be spotted at night.
How to get there:
In Manaus, there are many tour operators to choose from, ranging from budget to upscale. Budget tours tend to be more crowded and you will visit less pristine areas. A pricier but more rewarding jungle experience awaits you at the Uakari Lodge in the Mamirauá Reserve, located 675 km upriver from Manaus, outside the small city of Tefé. In the other direction, about 600 km downriver from Manaus, the small town of Alter do Chão is the jumping-off point for boats along the Rio Tapajós (a major tributary of the Amazon), including fascinating visits with local rubber-tapper communities. Alter do Chão itself is famous for its white sand beach. You could also board a flight from Manaus to both Tefé or Alter do Chão instead of going by the river route.
If you want to go deep into the forest in style and comfort, the Tucano Cruise and Amazon Clipper Cruises offer tour expeditions which let you disembark at wildlife observation points. From Santarém, the Amazon Dream Cruise provides one of the longest cruises (10 days) where you can enjoy snorkeling Aquarium Lakes filled with tropical fish.
ECUADOR
Yasuni National Park
This national park has an amazing amount of biodiversity packed in a small area of 982,000 hectares. In spite of covering less than 0.15% of the Amazon Basin, Yasuni houses approximately one-third of amphibian and reptile species. The park also harbors very high levels of fish diversity with 382 known species. It is home to at least 596 bird species which comprises one-third of the total native bird species for the Amazon, along with 117 bat species. The park breaks world records for local-scale (less than 100 km2) tree, amphibian and bat species richness, and is one of the richest spots in the world for birds and mammals at local scales.
How to get there:
The Shiripuno Lodge, run by the indigenous Huaorani people, usually has several departures each week. You can take a bus from Banos to Puyo or to Tena, and then a bus change to get to Coca. Your lodge will pick you up in Coca and take you into the national park. But you do need to book with and pay the lodge in advance.
Sani Lodge is owned by the Sani Isla community which is adopting ecotourism for conservation. This Lodge is located between Yasuni and the Cuyabeno Reserve. You can take guided hikes and canoe trips in search of the abundant animals and plants found in the area.
PERU
Southern Peru:
The flight routes to reach these national parks: Lima (capital) to Cuzco ($130, 1hr. 20 min.) or Lima to Pucallpa ($130, 1hr. 10 min.).
Sierra del Divisor National Park (Loreto and Ucayali)
After more than 9 years of being a reserved primary forest, Peru´s Sierra del Divisor was finally established as a National Park in November 2015. This was a cause for celebration for local indigenous tribes, international conservation groups and all of us who love Mother Earth. Although it´s dubbed as the Yellowstone of the Amazon for its conservation significance and spectacular geological features, this 1.3 million-hectare national park is several times larger. These features include the cone peaks with its signature stand-alone peak and sandstone plateaus.
In terms of biodiversity, this largely unexplored national park houses a wide range of wildlife, including 3,000 plant life, giant armadillos, jaguars, pumas, tapirs, monkeys, nearly 80 species of amphibians, 300 varieties of fish and more than 570 species of birds. It’s also home to several indigenous peoples, such as the Asháninkas, Matsés, Huambisas and Shipibos Conibos. In the Isconahua territorial reserve, 170 people live there as a voluntary uncontacted tribe.
How to get there:
From Pucallpa, you can choose to travel along the Shesha, Abuajo, and Ucayali rivers. You could also board a flight from Pucallpa to Contamana, and continue on a 20-km dirt road.
Alto Purus National Park (Ucayali)
At 2.5 million hectares, the Alto Purus National Park is the largest protected rainforest reserve of Peru. It houses the following number of species; 118 fish, 72 reptiles, 68 amphibians, 510 birds (one of the most important bird-watching territories in the world) and at least 86 mammalians.
How to get there:
One of the two ways is to reach it by flight from the city of Pucallpa, then travel to Puerto Esperanza where the hiking trail begins. There are 3 weekly flights offered by North American, Air Majoro and Aero Andino at $50 one-way. You could also charter the flight. River access is from Brazil by going from the Nueva Esperanza town to the headwaters of the Purus River to reach the Park´s border. This route takes two days and is rarely taken.
Manu Biosphere Reserve (Cuzco and Madre de Dios)
Manu Biosphere Reserve, which UNESCO states as the most biodiverse place in the world, covers almost 1.9 million hectares of relatively pristine rainforest. However, 1.5 million hectares is a core zone to be strictly preserved in its natural state, so you are only allowed to step into the remaining areas with a local guide. However, special permits could be sought from INRENA to access the core zone if you´re a scientist, anthropologist, photographer or naturalist.
The snow-capped mountain Apu Kañahuay meaning “he whom is close to God” overlooks the reserve at more than 4,000 meters above sea level. The Andean Condor or vulture can often be seen soaring about it. Close by, on the highlands of the fairytale valley of Paucartambo, a nature´s balcony called Tres Cruces (Three Crosses) offers an unbeatable view of the surrounding.
If you´re on a Manu Wildlife Center tour, you may even get a 10% chance of spotting a jaguar. In terms of flora, there are more than 15,000 plant species, and the number of fauna species; 1000 birds, 99 reptiles, about 140 amphibians, 159 mammals, 300 ants, 650 bees and 1307 butterflies.
How to get there:
By land and river
You could reach the reserve by a combination of bus and boat.
By air
It will take about 40 to 45 minutes to fly from Cuzco to the jungle lowlands. Inka Natura is offering flights five times per week using a Cessna Grand Caravan. You could travel one way by bus/boat and the other by plane.
There are only 8 tour operators who have the license to take tourists into the reserved zone. Tours start from Cuzco and usually take between 4 and 10 days. Prices range between $500 and $1800 depending on the length of the trip and the operator. All tours are guided by certified biologists.
Tambopata-Candamo National Reserve (Madre de Dios)
Tambopata-Candamo covers 1.5 million hectares. There are salt licks (called Collpa in Quechua, a native language) which are frequented by thousands of macaws every morning, which are accompanied by up to 12 species of birds. These salt (and clay) licks serve as a digestive aid and nutritious supplement to their fruit-based diet. They are also visited by tapirs and monkeys.
This national reserve boasts several world records in the number of flora and fauna of the region: 545 bird species within 5,500 hectares, 1122 species of butterflies, 151 species of dragonflies and 29 species of tiger beetles.
The Pampas del Heath is the only tropical grassland in Peru with an area of more than 100,000 hectares. The fauna is very rich and two endemic species are found here, a fox known as the Maned Wolf and a deer of the wetlands. It was only recently included as part of the Bahuaja-Sonene National Park.
How to get there: Although this reserve is close to the Manu Biosphere, it has better access from Puerto Maldonado. There are daily flights from Lima or Cuzco to Puerto Maldonado.
Stone Face of the Harakbut, Amarakaeri Reserve (Madre de Dios)
“Rising above a waterfall—and looking somewhat like the brooding stone faces of Easter Island or something out of the Lord of the Rings—this giant monument has long been known to the Harakbut people who live in the Amarakaeri Reserve. But they have kept it a secret until now. The giant face has never been studied by archeologists, but the Harakbut believe the face is not the product of natural forces, but carved by their ancient ancestors.” – Jeremy Hance, Mongabay, Waking Times
The Amarakaeri Reserve, formally created in 2004, is the heart of the Harakbut ancestral territory in the Madre de Dios province. It is home to 3 ethnic groups within 10 communities. It takes 3 days of hiking to get to the Rostro (Face) and there is an undeniable spiritual presence in the vicinity of this giant monument. It overlooks a river valley and a basin that resembles an amphitheater. There appears to be a second face on the monument; resting on the chin are a pair of closed eyes with a large bulbous nose. The indigenous tribe hopes that by revealing the Harakbut Face to the world, they may be able to better protect their territory from the invasion of illegal loggers and miners.
How to get there: This communal reserve is found within the Manu Biosphere and there are 3 ways to reach it.
By land
The Western part: 260 km from Cuzco, it´s difficult to travel during the rainy season.
The Eastern part: The Chiforongo, Huaypetue, Choque and Puquiri circuit. You will travel in 4 x 4 trucks which offer constant service to the same Puquiri River. Access is restricted.
By river
The towns of Puerto Maldonado, Laberinto, Colorado and Shintuya are connected by the Madre de Dios river and its possible to reach any point of the communal reserve by this route. During rainy seasons, a boat can enter without difficulty to the major rivers such as Colorado (or Karene), Puquiri, the Chilive, and El Blanco, among others. Access is restricted during the dry season.
By air
The town of Diamante has a runway for small aircrafts mainly used by tourists who visit the National Park of the Manu.
Northern Peru:
The flight route to reach these national parks: Lima to Iquitos ($130, 1hr. 50 min.) Iquitos is a jungle city of 437,000 inhabitants and it can only be accessed by air or river. It´s the starting point for many Amazon rainforest excursions in the north. Don´t forget to visit its world-famous architecture which were mostly built during the rubber boom in the late 18th to 19th century.
Pacaya Samiria National Reserve (Loreto)
Fancy swimming with the pink dolphins? Then you should head north to the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve. It spans an area of 2 million hectares. During the May to November dry season, birds from the Northern hemisphere migrate here. Shiny insects and colorful butterflies can be observed up close when you walk on the jungle ground. As this national reserve is largely a flooded forest, it´s best to travel in it by a river cruise. It´s packed with the following number of species; 527 birds, 102 mammalians, 69 reptiles, 58 amphibians, 269 fish and 1024 wild and cultivated plants.
Tamshiyacu Tahuayo Reserve (Iquitos, Loreto)
This reserve, spanning 420,000 hectares, is little known in the media and was founded to protect a rare primate named the Uakari. Endemic to Peru, it has a face that looks like a brightly colored peach and a body covered with dirty blond hair, resembling an orang-utan. The US Chicago Field Museum’s Rapid Biological Inventory, found in this reserve; 240 species of fish, 77 species of amphibians, 45 species of reptiles, 400 species of birds, and 39 species of terrestrial mammals including 14 species of primates. Check out the Tahuayo Lodge, associated with an Amazon Research Center, where you can hike an extensive trail network for observing a high diversity of jungle monkeys.
If you´re on budget or traveling with children, you could head to the Quistacocha Zoological Park in Iquitos, located about 20 minutes from the city. This 425-hectare park is populated by all sorts of Amazonian animals and it also has a short hiking trail. Also not to be missed is the Canopy Walkway which is part of the Amazon Conservatory of Tropical Studies near Iquitos. At a height of over 35 meters (115 feet) and extending for 500 meters (one-third of a mile), this Walkway provides you with a unique perception of treetop-dwelling wildlife. Additionally, you could hike on the extensive trails including the “Medicine Trail” specifically used to showcase the rainforest plants used in modern medicine and native plant remedies which science may use in the future.
The flight+land route to reach Chachapoyas: Lima to Tarapoto ($130, 1hr. 20 min.) and travel by colectivos (shared taxis) from Tarapoto-Moyobamba-Pedro Ruiz-Chachapoyas ($30, 8 hours). You have to make 2 transits in the taxi terminals as there are no direct routes from the airport to Chachapoyas. There are also flights from Iquitos to Tarapoto.
Chachapoyas (Amazonas-Peru)
The little-known Yumbilla Falls (5th highest in the world at 895 meters) is located in the cloud forest. It springs from the San Francisco cave at 2,723 m.a.s.l, descending to 1,828 m.a.s.l. in the natural region of Yunga. The falls consists of 3 levels or drops, its name means “heart in love” because when rain is abundant, a heart shape is seen on a certain spot where water hits rock. Apart from the various waterfalls that you´ll pass by before reaching Yumbilla, you may be able to catch a glimpse of the elusive national bird, the bright red Gallito de la Roca (Rock rooster) and other birds. To get there, once you´re in Pedro Ruiz (before heading to Chachapoyas), take a mototaxi ($3) up to the village of Cuispes. At the main square, look for La Posada, a white façade upscale hostel to ask them to recommend a hiking guide to YF. You can start hiking from the village to the falls (12.8 km round trip) or take a mototaxi to the entrance of the forest and only hike 5 km in total.
Chachapoyas is the capital city of Amazonas (not to be confused with Amazon although it´s at the North Western edge of the Amazon basin). The ruins of Kuelap, dubbed the Machu Picchu of the north, is about 2 hours from the city center. It sits above 3,000 m.a.s.l among the cloud forests. The prolific Peruvian archaeologist Dr. Federico Kauffmann considers it as a worship and food administration center. It is also believed that it was a fortified town. The construction used 40,000,000 cubic meters of stones, about three times more than the volume of the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt. The heaviest stones weigh up to 3 tons each. Within the fortified walls are 505 round-base buildings and 198 outside, making it more than 700. You are recommended to visit the ancient sarcophagi of Karajia, the Leymebamba Museum of mummified remains, the Gocta Falls, the Canyon of Sonche, among the many attractions in this city. In terms of lodging, the Chachapoyas Backpackers Hostel is highly recommended and it´s close to the Central Plaza. You may book for guided tours from this hostel or in the Plaza itself.
Rioja (San Martín-Perú)
The flight and land route to reach Rioja, is the same way from Tarapoto to Chachapoyas but you get off earlier. This is the 11th spot on the list and are great budget options, as they consist of day trips. All of them are found in Rioja.
-The flooded forest of Santa Elena (los humedales de Santa Elena)
-The Tioyacu river (El río Tioyacu)
-The caves of Palestine (Las cuevas de Palestina)
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